August in the Garden Pattern Resources
Thank you for purchasing this pattern. I hope these resources provide any help you need but if you find you still need an assist, feel free to email me at byhandcraftco@gmail.com.
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GETTING STARTED | STITCH TUTORIALS | PATTERN TEMPLATE | PHOTO WALK THROUGH | FINISH YOUR HOOP
Getting Started
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1. Mount your fabric in the hoop.
Use the bolt on top of your hoop to loosen and separate the two hoops. Lay down the inner hoop, put your fabric over it, and put the outer hoop over the fabric, sandwiching the fabric between the two hoops. Give it a flick to see if it sounds like a drum. This will tell you if it’s tight enough.
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2. Thread your needle.
DMC floss is 6-ply. After you cut a length to work with (I measure outstretched fingertip to nose – about 31”) you’ll need to separate the threads according to the stitch guide. If you use all 6 strands and it only called for 3, your design might look off. If you find yourself needing more thread for some reason, please refer to the back over which lists all the DMC colors used in this pattern.
I recommend using the small needle when you’re working with 1-2 strands, and the larger needle for everything else. Once you have your strands through the eye, knot one end of the strands and leave the other end loose. You’ll want the strands in your knot to equal 4 for this fabric. If you’re using 6 strands, one knot is enough. If you’re using 3 strands, you’ll want a double knot. -
A few tips to get you started.
These are the answers to the most common questions I get asked.
Tip #1: Unlike sewing, where you are securing everything with the goal of durability, embroidery is purely decorative. With that in mind, our stitches are just going to lay on the fabric (the fabric that we always have good tension on). We don’t want them too tight where they’re making gaping holes in the fabric, nor too loose and floppy. Just a nice, neat, even stitch that lays with the fabric.
Tip #2: When moving from one spot to another, I recommend travelling up to 1” on the backside. If you have to go farther than that, consider tying off and starting in the new spot. (You will break this rule sometimes with stitches like Satin Stitch. But rules are meant to be broken, right?)
Tip #3: When you have about 3" of thread left, you’ll want to tie off on the backside using a simple knot. You can use the tip of your needle to hold the knot right against the fabric while you pull, so it secures your stitches.
RDE Stitch Tutorials
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Blanket Stitch
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Brick Stitch
Brick Stitch is using lines of Back Stitch to fill in a space. Working backwards, come up a stitch’s length ahead A and back down B to meet your existing stitches. Your stitches will offset with each line, just like bricks in a wall. Most of the time we keep the stitches the same length but it will be necessary to include short stitches when you start and end some rows to get the stitches offset from the previous row.
Tip: For some stitches like Brick Stitch, I like to start with a row in the center and work first one direction, then the other. This way my lines are less likely to list to one side as I progress. -
Cross Stitch
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Sheaf Stitch
Sheaf Stitch is worked by first making three straight stitches (A-B) with a little space in between them. Then come up just to one side of the middle stitch and make a straight stitch (C-D) that goes back down just to the other side of the middle stitch.
This pulls all three stitches together (like a sheaf!). -
Straigh Stitch
Straight Stitch is the most basic stitch, which comes up at A and down at B, making a short line.
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Wagon Wheel
Wagon Wheel is worked mostly on top of the fabric. Make 5 stitches, like spokes on a wheel. Come up very close to the center and pass your needle over, under, over, under as you go around. Secure your thread at the end by putting the needle back through the fabric and tying off on the backside.
Tip: It’s really easy to mess up a wagon wheel rose by getting it caught on your needle or a ring. Consider adding these last. If you do mess one up, use your needle to fluff the strands back into place.
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Need a fresh template?
Download and print a copy of the Green Sea Turtle Pattern Template!
[ DOWNLOAD ]
August in the Garden Photo Walk Through
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Step 1
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Step 2
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Step 3
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Step 4
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Step 5
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Step 6
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Step 7
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Step 8
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Step 9
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Step 10
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Step 11
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Finished Photo
Finish Your Hoop
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1. Cut felt circle.
Unhoop your project and place the INNER circle of your hoop on your felt. Draw a circle using the inside of the inner hoop as your guide. Cut out the felt circle.
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2. Wash and dry as needed
The preprinted lines on this fabric are permanent and do not come out. If you have any smudges of dirt, etc., now is the time to wash your embroidery. I recommend cold running water. If it needs more washing, you can wash in gentle soapy water. Never wring your finished embroidery. When you’ve cleaned your embroidery, simply lay it on a towel to air dry.
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3. Trim excess fabric.
I leave between ¾” and 1” of excess fabric around the edge of the hoop. Too little and you won’t be able to work with it. Too much and it will bunch up behind the design and look bad.
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4. Sew around edge and pull tight.
Using a regular sewing needle and thread (or leftover embroidery floss & needle if you don’t have sewing supplies), make big stitches around the edge of excess fabric and pull tight, then secure with multiple stitches.
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5. Attach felt to back of hooped fabric.
Attach to the backside of your hoop using a whip stitch as shown.

Meet Rosanna
Besides being a passionate fiber artist and teacher, Rosanna is a wife, mother, member of the Society for Embroidered Work, and casual gardener.
She is a baby knitter, a very slow quilter, and always ready for a family adventure.